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Surf's Up

January 9, 2018

The waves were riding high, the wind was strong, the experienced surfies pulled up in their cars with the boards strapped to their roof racks, took a look and headed back home.


I was not deterred. They must have been wimps, the waves weren't that big afterall.


All morning I had been psyching myself up to take my Uncle's board out of the garage to go for a surf across the road and NOTHING was going to stop me.


We headed out just after midday. The wind was still blowing violently, the waves were crashing with long white plumes. I stepped across the sand, pushing against the mighty gusts, the board twitched the other way. That was weird.


I took another step, and pulled the board back hard against the wind to the right and the wind pushed it back to the left. The beach was long, the struggle was intense. Each step had this odd kind of wobble as I staggered across the beach, looked on by a sea of apartment windows.


 My sister followed and stared at me in disbelief, "How could anyone look so stupid ?" She thought to herself.  I read her mind, and twitched with discomfort.


In irritation she took the board from my hands  and started walking, only to wriggle more pathetically then I did, as the wind tried to wrench the fibreglass board out of her hands.


She turned back to me, too shocked for words. I shouted out to her, to be heard. "I'll take the front and you take the back." She agreed.


 We took our positions and marched up the beach, the wind was smacking our legs and faces with coarse grained sand. 


We pulled, the wind pushed, it felt like we were about to be blown into the dunes at any moment. Even still, I hadn't given up hope that we would be amazing as we went into the surf, for the very first time.


We reached the midpoint of the beach, I threw down my towel and dashed into the waves, with my board underarm. The waves crashed all around me, perfect. 


I took the board and tossed it at the rising wave, but before it had hit the surface, the wind picked it up and threw it into my face.


"Ouch." My nose was sore and my pride was hurting. Disgusted I passed the board to my sister who looked at it in horror. She was not sure if she wanted anything else to do with this disastrous outing.


The suddenly, with a sense of bold expectation she took a leap onto the board and missed



 it completely. It moved off fast and began bouncing off the waves. It was unbelievable. We chased after it hard, across those crashing waves and eventually brought it into shore. 


That was the last time that I went surfing... I can't say that I miss it.

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